My first time in the south of France was when I was 16, on a trip to Arles with my family. I was immediately taken in by the pastel-colored buildings, the warm air (even in March) and the warm, friendly people (not to mention the delicious seafood.) We stayed with a delightful family in a small bed and breakfast, and spent the few days we were there exploring the Roman ruins, traveling around the region and eating (a lot.)
This trip was a bit different. Ari and I didn’t quite know what to expect, neither of us having been to Nice or the French Riviera before. (I was basically envisioning Casino Royale with more croissants.) We were immediately charmed by the gorgeous architecture and the incredible views of the Mediterranean, and one of my favorite moments was when we decided to walk up to the city Chateau and stumbled across a waterfall. We also had some incredible food–though we didn’t get to go to Le Canon because I forgot to make a reservation, we still were able to eat at a number of wonderful restaurants.
Le Franchin Situated on a little side street, this traditional bistro served the best seafood bisque I’ve ever had. We actually went here after we learned that Le Canon was booked on a recommendation from the owner, and it didn’t disappoint. A great spot for affordable wine and delicious fish–and the staff speaks English, so it’s easy to communicate.
Restaurant Aphrodite The menu at this molecular gastronomy restaurant looks pretty crazy at first glance, but don’t be afraid. Ari and I had two different tasting menus, and everything was wonderful–but we especially loved the asparagus dish with an egg and caviar, and the incredible edible forest, complete with tiny souffle “snails” and mushrooms. Chef David Faure and his wife were incredibly nice and friendly, and the staff explained everything about the menu in great detail.
Parcours Live Situated just outside Nice in the hilltop village of Falicon, Parcours Live is a Michelin-starred restaurant in an unassuming old farmhouse that just happens to have world-class views of the Riviera. When we got there it was already dark, but food more than made up for it. Chef Frederic Galland is clearly super talented, and the spacious dining room was very comfortable and quiet. I particularly loved the rabbit terrine and the red snapper with zucchini flowers.
Other notes: we stayed in two different hotels, Hotel La Perouse and the Hyatt Palais Mediteranee. Both quite different and equally lovely, but I loved the old world charm of Hotel La Perouse. Though they’re both on the Promenade des Anglais, La Perouse is a bit more off the beaten track, and their roof deck has some of the best views of Nice.
We also enjoyed a delightful lunch at a sidewalk cafe in the Place Durandy, and we loved walking through the Promenade du Paillon, which was probably one of the best city parks I’ve ever seen. We didn’t make it to any museums, but I’ve heard wonderful things about the Chagall museum and the modern art museum, should you be so inclined. As it was, we were very happy walking around the old city and having an aperitif or an ice cream cone when it suited us.